![]() ![]() It can record footage in UHD 4K at 30fps or 2K 1440p at silky-smooth 60fps. You might need to physically switch it off or unplug the cable to ensure it doesn’t drain your battery.The Thinkware U1000 dash cam is a hugely impressive piece of kit that gets our top-spot recommendation. It’s worth noting that your dash cam draws power from the battery when the car isn’t on though, which can happen with some models. Most dash cams will start automatically once you’ve powered up and started driving. This should be the easiest part of the whole process. It's worth driving around the block to ensure your unit is configured as expected and that it’s capturing footage as desired. This will be the best way to ensure everything works as expected, too, if there isn’t a preview screen on the dash cam itself. Most dash cams come with a supporting app, which is frequently what you’ll be using to review any footage if the need arises. ![]() This can frequently be the reason a dash cam stops working as less than great connections shake loose or cables even drop out altogether. It’s worth checking this again once the setup has had time to bed in, especially if you own an older vehicle that’s prone to lots of vibration. Most models come with a bundled cord for doing this, though it's worth making sure it comes with a longer one (at least four meters, ideally) if you're planning to pipe it around your windscreen and underneath seats. ![]() The most basic way to power your dash cam is to plug it into your car's cigarette lighter/auxiliary port. Plug-in or hard-wired?ĭash cams are third-party accessories, which means you'll have cables to deal with – and this is the most complex part of the installation. Some tape, a wipe-off marker and, ideally, a second pair of eyes can all help get the camera positioned correctly before you fasten it into place. You might get lucky and position it right first time, but if you’re working with a sticky pad-type mount it’s best to practice a couple of times first. Every vehicle is different, so this requires some careful thought and experimentation. Some models come with spare sticky pads that allow you to do this, but it’s less appealing than the suction mount route.Įither way, the main objective is to position the dash cam so it aligns with the horizon. The downside of this mount design is that you need to get the position of the dash cam right first time, or be prepared to pull it off and start again. This bonds in semi-permanent fashion to your windscreen, dash or similar location. The other type of mount frequently revolves around a bracket with a sticky self-adhesive pad on it. (Image credit: xfilephotos / Shutterstock) Conversely, low down near where the windscreen meets the dashboard is another dependable vantage point. Just under the rear-view mirror is a standard option. If you’re installing a front-facing dash cam you’ll want an unobstructed view of the road ahead from a centrally-located vantage point. This is a straightforward step in the process but requires some forethought. A second pair of hands is always a bonus, too. A light is also handy if you’re working inside the car or poking around under the dash. Grab a screwdriver and some tape for holding things in place. You’ll need to allocate a little time for the installation, but the tools needed should be minimal. Other front-and-rear bundles have a rear-mounted camera as part of the package. Consider this option if you think interior security is a must-have. Some models, like the Nexar Pro, come with an additional interior camera for added security. ![]() You might have more than one dash cam to install, too. The Nexar Pro (above) has two cameras, so requires a little more planning in terms of positioning. ![]()
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